Several bumps in the road, a few glasses of beer, and a black omurice later, we couldn’t be more satisfied with our new discoveries.
When planning a trip, some people enjoy meticulously scheduling out each day, knowing where and what time they’ll be doing activities, whereas others take pleasure in the more laid-back approach, keeping a rough idea in mind and leaving the rest until the day itself. However, there are also those who relish in spontaneity, selecting a location, traveling there, and only then deciding what they want to do, never making a plan beyond the current activity.
I’ve tried all these ways during my travels around Japan, and while I don’t do it much any more, there really is something exhilarating about keeping your holiday in complete suspense for yourself, never really knowing what’s going to happen until you reach your destination.
There are several ways to get a taste of this style of traveling, like going on a mystery bus, train, plane, or even ferry tour, but our Japanese-language reporter Asami Oshima stumbled across a rather unusual capsule machine called Yorimichi Map. Unlike the capsule machines you’ll see in many other places in Japan, this one doesn’t include a toy, but rather a map, and as “yorimichi” means “dropping in on the way” or “making a side trip”, the Yorimichi Map project is essentially themed around walking the side streets of Nippori, where only locals are likely to tread.
The machine is installed in the front of the Ecute Nippori shopping mall situated inside JR Nippori Station in Tokyo, and comes as one of a pair.
There are two time-based versions: the Day Map (1:00 p.m.–6:00 p.m.), and the Evening Map (5:00 p.m.–9:00 p.m.), each having four varieties, for a total of eight maps, and all planned out by the local Machimachi Megane eyewear shop.
It seems to be a popular project, as when Asami rocked up to the capsule machine, the Day Maps were already sold out and waiting to be restocked.
▼ The Evening Map on the left, and the sold-out Day Map on the right
With no choice, and a little anticipation, she inserted a 100 yen (US$0.64) coin into the Evening Map machine, and turned the dial.
Out popped a map entitled, “A drunken downhill walk! Wandering small drinking spots along Yanaka Road”.
Seeing as Asami holds the belief that all of humanity will become family after having a drink, this walking tour sounded right up her alley. The walk would have her start at a bar, stop at a small goods shop, enjoy some sake, and wrap things up at another bar. The thought of visiting so many bars got her excitement level rising.
There’s even English on the back, making it known that international visitors are more than welcome to participate in the program.
Along with the map was also a small voucher that can be exchanged for something at the goal shop, adding an extra sense of anticipation.
So, off Asami went, starting her walk from the west exit of Nippori Station.
Following the map, she first climbed up an uphill slope.
After passing through a quiet residential area and turning the corner by a stone shop, the first stop was just a little bit further…
There it is! The first stop: Bar Hoshikuzu.
Apparently, it’s a music bar where you can casually enjoy drinks while listening to records centered on city pop. However…
It appeared that they had an irregular closure that day, so Asami was unable to go in.
It was unfortunate that the tour got off to such a poor start, but it being December 27, right in the middle of the year-end period when a lot of closures and parties happen, some bumps in the road should be expected. Onwards!
Moving swiftly on, just a short walk away was the second stop: Boheme Plus Beaudessin, a shop featuring bags and small goods centered on leather products.
Inside you will find beautifully crafted, high-quality items lining the shelves, which are a delight to peruse.
The shop is run single-handedly by the owner, Tokihiko Ikushima, and there’s even a small prefab hut a short distance away that mostly sells apparel items.
When Asami spoke to him, she found out that he has been involved in leathercraft and apparel production for over 40 years, and he opened this shop at the age of 60. Looking at his youthful energy, you might be as surprised as Asami was to learn that he is currently 68 years old.
Mr. Ikushima also happens to be quite the fan of alcohol, even giving Asami some recommended places to drink, which she did try to go to afterwards, but was again not able to get in.
▼ A pub called Enoki, just a stone’s throw away from Exit 1 of Sendagi Subway Station on the Chiyoda Line.
The two of them had a calm and pleasant chat, and she eventually left the store feeling completely relaxed.
Next up on the route is the sake bar Shukon.
▼ There’s even a sugidama, a ball of cedar leaves used to indicate that new sake is ready, hanging out front.
This hidden Japanese sake bar, which opened in 2023, is based on reversing the traditional concept of matching Japanese sake to food, which highlights the food as the more important of the two. At Shukon, the Japanese sake plays second fiddle to none, with the food only serving to complement it. Asami couldn’t wait to finally get a sip of alcohol…
Until tragedy struck once again: the place was reserved for a private event, so Asami couldn’t enter.
That’s two out of three places. Asami couldn’t help but lament her poor choice of timing to go out and explore. With only the goal of the map left to go, she quelled her frustration and headed towards the final stop, Seitaro.
However, as Asami was strolling along, a “Craft Beer” sign jumped out at her.
Even though it wasn’t on her Yorimichi Map, Asami felt compelled to go into the store. Making little detours on your way to the goal is all in the spirit of “yorimichi.”
Asami entered Buzzed Lamb Brewing, a microbrewery renovated from an old liquor store whose building was over a century old.
Here, you can enjoy up to six taps of craft beer brewed in the on-site brewery.
You can even peer into the area where they brew the beer.
For her first alcohol of the day, Asami ordered the “Aries no Hiyaku” (Regular, 900 yen) and “Mugi to Rice” (Regular, 800 yen). For snacks, Asami went for the three-item plate, consisting of a four-mushroom herb marinade, gizzard confit, and edamame and baby corn with fragrant soy sauce.
Aries no Hiyaku had a citrusy, tropical note and was easy to drink.
Mugi to Rice was low in bitterness, with a gentle rice umami.
All three foods on the plate were carefully prepared, and more than worthy as accompaniments to the craft beer.
While she was enjoying her ordered items, by sheer happenstance, Asami ran into the person in charge of Machimachi Megane, the creators of the Yorimichi Map, Ayaka Fujiwara. With a memorable smile and gentle demeanor, Ayaka listened to Asami’s story, and agreed to take a commemorative photo.
Satisfied she could fill up her stomach a little, and feeling pleasantly tipsy, Asami continued on to the final location, Seitaro.
This is a sake bar where you can enjoy a wide selection of Japanese sake and dishes, some quite rare. According to the map description, it’s run by a highly service-minded owner known as Yama-chan.
Apparently, the store’s hidden specialty is dashi ramen, so of course Asami was eager to try it. There was even the voucher she had to use from the capsule machine, but alas…
They were full, and Asami couldn’t get in.
In the end, Asami couldn’t enter any of the three pubs listed on the map, and she silently cursed herself for attempting the tour during the end-of-year festivities.
However, Asami didn’t want to let the evening end on such a sour note, so she figured there must surely be one more good place around. As she walked along the streets, she passed many interesting and cute-looking stores that seemed to warrant a closer look another day.
Asami wandered around for a while until she discovered a traditional house bar with a distinctly retro atmosphere.
This place is Sun Potter Cafe Nonbiriya, a cafe and bar renovated from a 100-year-old traditional house.
During the day, it operates as a cozy cafe, and at night as a stylish bar. In winter, they even set up kotatsu, tables fitted with quilts and heaters, making it very true to its name: a place where you can “nonbiri” (relax and unwind).
Asami started off by ordering Ichiro-san’s Highball (880 yen), Ankimo Ponzu (780 yen), and the recommended Omurice (Black) for 1,400 yen.
The Ankimo Ponzu, monkfish liver with a citrusy soy sauce, was surprisingly tender and extremely delicious.
However, the Omurice was just too shocking.
What looks like a typical dish of Omurice, with an omelet topping some rice, is actually hiding a dark, black secret: jet-black rice.
Digging a little deeper, the secret is revealed to be squid ink seafood risotto.
Despite the striking appearance, it’s incredibly mellow, with the rich umami of squid ink quite noticeable. The dish was so outstanding that had the store been any closer to Asami’s home, she would likely have become a regular just for the meal by itself.
The store staff also recommended the Kenbisihi Taruzake (880 yen), so she decided to order that as well.
This is a dry, umami-rich sake that maintains the traditional flavor profile established since the Muromachi period (1336–1573), and the amber color leaves a lasting impression.
It paired perfectly with the complementary squid snack, making for a deeply satisfying final drink.
With the final glass of alcohol down the hatch, the Yorimichi Map walk came to a close. Although Asami wasn’t able to follow the map exactly as planned, there’s no doubt that she was able to discover places that she would never normally stop by, and had unexpected encounters with people. Seeing as she was unable to use the voucher, she still hopes to give going to Seitaro another go, though.
If you want to add a little splash of mystery to your holiday, or just fancy going out for a walk in a neighborhood you seldom visit, consider going on a mystery walking tour, not knowing what wonderful local delights you’ll come across. The Yorimichi Map is a limited-time project running until March 31, 2026, so be sure to give the capsule machine a go if you pass through JR Nippori station, but even if you miss out on the chance, there are still plenty of things to do around the area, such as the retro shopping street of Yanaka Ginza, as well as a whole lot of cats to find.
Shop information
Boheme Plus Beaudessin / ボエム プリュス ボーデッサン
Address: Tokyo-to, Taito-ku, Yanaka 7-17-9 Goten #01
東京都台東区谷中7-17-9 轟天＃01
Open: 11:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m.
Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays (open on holidays)
Website
Buzzed Lamb Brewing / バズド ラム ブルーイング
Address: Tokyo-to, Taito-ku, Yanaka 4-2-39
東京都台東区谷中4-2-39
Open: 12:00 p.m.–3:00 p.m., 4:00 p.m.–8:00 p.m. (until 10:00 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays)
Closed: Mondays and Tuesdays
Website
Sun Potter Cafe Nonbiriya / 散ポタカフェ のんびりや
Address: Tokyo-to, Taito-ku, Yanaka 5-2-29
東京都台東区谷中5-2-29
Open: Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays 12:00 p.m.–3:00 p.m., 6:00 p.m.–11:00 p.m.
Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays 11:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m.
Closed: Wednesdays and Thursdays
Website
Related: Machimachi Megane
Photos ©SoraNews24
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[ Read in Japanese ]