Used as a Netflix crime drama set, this safe, solo-female-friendly venue offers up black omurice and colorful retro sodas.

Kabukicho, in Tokyo, is Japan’s most recognizable red-light district, packed to the brim with adult entertainment and touts for venues that charge exorbitant and unexpected fees. It’s not the sort of place where most travelers, women in particular, would probably feel comfortable heading into an establishment alone and for the first time. However, we came across a Kabukicho cafe that even many solo women are keen to dine at, and it’s like stepping through a portal into a world set half a century prior.

Our Japanese-language reporter Natsuki Gojo is a lover of all things cute, with her life goal being to live surrounded by cute things, spread the charm of cuteness and become a cute grandmother. One of her less grandiose dreams, though, was to visit a Showa-era (1926–1989) cabaret, so when she found out about Niinana Kissa, a cafe that operates inside what used to be the famous Hinomaru Cabaret, she knew she had to be brave and venture forth into Kabukicho.

Walking through the district, just north of Shinjuku’s iconic Godzilla Head installation, Natsuki soon came across the cute retro sign…

…but the building itself was another mental hurdle for her to overcome, being less than warm and welcoming.

Pushing aside her trepidation, Natsuki plucked up her courage to walk up the stairs and open the door.

Unfolding before her was a glamorous Showa cabaret, with neon lights shaped like the Japanese flag (colloquially called the Hinomaru) dazzlingly brightly at the end of the room.

Looking up at the ceiling, it was covered in mirrors, and the disco ball was sparkling like a massive gemstone.

The entrance had, to put it bluntly, an intimidating vibe, but take a step inside, and it’s truly another world. Natsuki’s excitement couldn’t help but shoot through the roof, this was exactly the type of cabaret she had been longing to visit at least once.

Since Niinana Kissa was used as a filming location for the Netflix crime drama series Tokyo Swindlers, Natsuki was a little worried about what to do if there were scary customers inside, so just in case, she prepared some high-pressure fashionable sunglasses to adopt a don’t-mess-with-me vibe.

▼ They turned out to be completely unnecessary.

Looking around the interior, it was clear that the main customer base was groups of women, who all seemed to be enjoying oshikatsu (activities centered on supporting their favorite idol or character) by savoring colorful drinks, but there were also couples and women by themselves too. In fact, the typical Kabukicho-like clientele that Natsuki had been expecting wasn’t there, being mostly women and younger generations. Taking off her unneeded sunglasses, she settled in her seat and got ready to enjoy herself.

During peak hours, there is a 60-minute limit (or an additional order required), and after 10:00 p.m., a cover charge of 500 yen (US$3) applies, but during other time slots, you can use the cafe without a cover charge.

Having come all this way, Natsuki opted for the most popular drink and food to see the best the cafe had to offer.

▼ Although there were numerous tantalizing options to choose from.

The 27 Club Soda (900 yen) is just so photogenic, with a rich variety of versions available. Natsuki selected orange, which is said to be one of the most popular among customers because of its great taste.

On top of the refreshing orange soda, there’s whipped cream, ice cream, an Oreo, and a cherry, and while the menu says it’s a drink, it feels more like a dessert. Natsuki loved how voluminous it was, but she had to wrap up her photos quickly as the ice cream soon started melting.

Sipping on her drink, Natsuki admired the cuteness of both the coasters and the matchboxes.

The overwhelming favorite food is said to be the Black Omurice (1,500 yen), but with the amount of cheese sauce, it’s definitely more white than black.

▼ Oh… wait…. there it is.

The inside is pitch black. Unlike some other instances of black food being a result of including squid ink, this blackness comes from bamboo charcoal, and the lightly-seasoned rice goes exceptionally well with the rich cheese sauce. Due to how black it was Natsuki wasn’t quite sure what to expect as they took a bite, but the vegetables and meat still turned out to have a thoroughly enjoyable texture and flavor.

While there is a trend for photogenic items at places where you go to enjoy the space to not be particularly delicious, the menu at Niinana Kissa is genuinely tasty. In fact, whenever Natsuki feels like having something to drink or eating a meal around Kabukicho, she’s considering using it as a regular coffee shop.

▼ Even the sofas on the side look comfortable enough to enjoy some refreshments on.

For some, there is one thing that might put people off, and that is that smoking is allowed, though Natsuki could see that as adding to the sense of having traveled back in time to the Showa era.

Contrary to its somewhat intimidating exterior, Niinana Kissa is a charming space where, once inside, you can enjoy it in various ways, from reflecting on a bygone era to using it as an everyday cafe.

Cafe information
Niinana Kissa / ニーナナ喫茶
Address: Tokyo-to, Shinjuku-ku, Kabukicho 2-36-3, Shinjuku Acb Kaikan 3F
東京都新宿区歌舞伎町2-36-3 新宿Acb会館 3F
Open 11:00 a.m.–6:00 a.m.
May suddenly close due to filming or event operations, so check Instagram stories for confirmation
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[ Read in Japanese ]