It’s the best place to learn a thing or two about hot springs.

When people think of Osaka, they tend to think of loud, boisterous people in leopard print clothing walking through the blazing neon streets with larger-than-life signs of dragons, crabs, and pufferfish. This has always annoyed our writer Seiji Nakazawa because every time he tells people he’s from Osaka, he has to clarify that he grew up in the very rural southern part of the prefecture.

▼ Behold the bright lights and big city of Seiji’s Osaka

This Obon season, when he returned to his parents’ home for the holidays, Seiji naturally found himself with little to do. His friends were all busy and there wasn’t even anything around that he could use as material for an article… or so he thought.

After hearing his lamenting, Seiji’s father suddenly brightened up and said “I know a good story!”

▼ Seiji and his father, whose identity was concealed for his protection

Seiji’s dad explained that there was a hot spring complex not too far from them that was made out of an old elementary school. Seiji had covered places that were converted from schools before, and even though this was the first school-turned-hot-spring he’d heard of, he wasn’t all that keen on the idea of spending the day at an abandoned school with his father.

Still, seeing how giddy his dad was to help out, he couldn’t bring himself to say no. So, they hopped in the car and headed out to the hot spring facility.

Despite Japan’s image of widespread public transportation, in Seiji’s pocket of Osaka it was a 20-minute drive just to get to the nearest train station where some trains only run once every hour.

Not only that, but their destination lay even deeper in the countryside. They drove past Mizuma Kannon Station, which was the end of the train line going in this direction.

They then passed through an area even more rural that Seiji’s hometown. The houses were all wooden throwbacks and the main attraction there was a temple founded in the 8th century.

And yet, they still had deeper to go, into the mountain range that separates Osaka and Wakayama prefectures. It’s known as the Kishu Alps, but the name suggests for more majestic scenery than what Seiji saw around him.

As they drove through the empty mountain roads, Seiji’s father suddenly announced, “We’re here!” This surprised Seiji since there was nothing to see except a small sign on the side of the road.

By the sign was an almost invisible steep road that they turned onto and climbed upward.

At the top was a small village with what looked like an elementary school perched atop a hill.

Seiji let out a sarcastic laugh. He wasn’t surprised this school fell out of use but instead wondered why they put one way out here in the first place. On the other hand, the way the school overlooked the quaint village was interesting and he was surprised a place like this even existed in Osaka.

The name of this hot spring was Kaizuka Ibuki Onsen and its style was a combination of rustic and sleek. In addition to the bathing areas, there’s also a glamping site, laundromat, and sports ground which includes the former school’s gymnasium.

It was even equipped with Wi-Fi. The only inconvenience, aside from the location, was that it was only open Friday to Sunday and public holidays. Also, certain areas like the private baths and barrel saunas were by reservation only, though most people probably wouldn’t come all the way out here on a whim like Seiji did.

▼ The baths are divided into three sections: a private bath and two sections that alternate between use by men and women depending on the day. Even though one is named “Open Air”, all sections have an open air bath.

▼ Bundles of wood to fuel a sauna cost 660 yen (US$4.60) each

Still, he was able to use the public bath, which cost 700 yen plus 500 yen to rent a face and bath towel. The hot spring itself was still new and neat looking, the water felt thick but in a good way that felt smooth and not slimy.

▼ The baths themselves are part of a new building added onto the former school

Seiji read more about this place and learned that the onsen was a centerpiece for all of Ibuki Village. All around were rental farms, harvesting experiences, a cafe, and a restaurant. It was all designed with the idea of supporting the agriculture and social welfare of the community.

It was kind of inspiring to Seiji, who had been going through some life changes himself, to see how this community is rallying together to make the most of what they have. Unfortunately, because of its very remote location, it’s a little hard to recommend Ibuki Onsen and Ibuki Village as the perfect destination for everyone.

▼ He looked around and the best access was a bus stop with four or five buses a day.

But, for those willing and able to make the trek out here, it’s a nice place to visit and surprisingly has a lot to offer. It’s especially great for those looking to get away from the crowds found in Japan’s more famous tourist spots.

Hot spring information
Kaizuka Ibuki Onsen / かいづかいぶき温泉
Osaka-fu, Kaizuka-shi, Sobura 2114
大阪府貝塚市蕎原2114
Open: Fri, Sat, Sun, Holidays (Noon – 9 p.m.)
Private baths and saunas are open on Mondays and Thursdays, but by reservation only
Website

Photos ©SoraNews24
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