A unique outdoor experience, where you pay for your bath by the litre.  

You’ll see a lot of things on a drive through the mountains in rural Japan, but if you’re up north of Tokyo, in Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture, you’ll want to keep your eyes peeled for a secret onsen so unusual even locals are surprised by it.

We never would’ve come across the onsen ourselves if it wasn’t for our reporter Masanuki Sunakoma stumbling upon it during a drive in the area. What drew his attention to the spot was a giant, handmade sign that read “Tent Baths Onsen Sales“, and being the adventurous type, he immediately turned off the main road to find out what it was all about.

The sign looked a little creepy and so too did the road to the so-called “tent baths”, which was more like a forest path, taking him into a heavily wooded area that was dimly lit due to shade cover.

Masanuki’s heart was thumping with excitement at the impulse decision to veer off towards an unknown destination, but when he turned a corner and saw an arrow with the familiar onsen hot spring icon on it, he knew he was on the right path.

Not long past this sign, the trees cleared and Masanuki arrived at a facility that looked like a secret hideout.

As he cautiously approached the main building, a friendly landlady appeared, smiling with a warm welcome and easing Masanuki’s nerves. She told him to park the car and head inside the cafe, where he could register for his bath.

▼ The cafe and baths here are only open two days a week, on Fridays and Sundays.

The cafe was like a lovely little oasis in the middle of nowhere, and the name of the facility, “Panthalassa no Umi Ashikaga Onsen”, made him feel like a drop in the ocean too. “Panthalassa no Umi” (“Panthalassan Ocean”) refers to the massive superocean that covered half the Earth when the supercontinent Pangaea existed, back in the early Mesozoic period, and it really made Masanuki feel like he’d stepped back in time.

The quiet stillness of the forest retreat made Masanuki feel as if he was one of only a few people alive on Earth, adding a dash of extra excitement to his bathing expedition. Perusing the bath “menu”, he discovered that the hot springs were located on the opposite side of the cafe, across from the parking lot, and ran on an unusual system whereby visitors pay to use a full tub of water.

The cost is 110 yen (US$0.68) for 18 litres (4.75 gallons), and the price varies, depending on the size of the bathtub. There were seven different baths available, and Masanuki went for the most expensive one, which came with two tubs, for 2,750 yen.

As he waited for his bath to be freshly prepared, he was served a free cup of Jerusalem artichoke tea with a side of Yubeshi, a sweet rice cake made with yuzu citrus, and both were delicious.

It didn’t take long for his bath to be ready, so when the landlady returned, he headed out to the bathing area.

It was like a spa retreat in the middle of the forest, and as he got closer he could see why the sign had advertised the place as “tent baths”.

There, under what was perhaps the biggest tent-like covering of them all, was Masanuki’s double-bath wonder.

This is the most popular bath for families and couples, and because the price remains standard, regardless of how many people use it at the same time, it’s a cost-effective option.

▼ Masanuki, however, had the two tubs all to himself.

According to the landlady, the stainless steel bathtub contains hot spring water which is about 42 degrees Celsius (107 degrees Fahrenheit), and the wooden one has hot spring water which is about 25 degrees.

“Please enjoy the hot and cold bath” said the landlady before she disappeared, and that’s exactly what Masanuki did, stripping off and hopping into the hot bath first.

As the baths are reserved for private use and cleaned and refilled after each visit, it’s okay to buck the usual rules of cleaning yourself with soap before hopping in. Masanuki had just showered in the morning so he didn’t mind easing himself into the bath straight away, and as he felt the water warming his body and softening his skin, he was able to relax fully before stepping out to try the colder tub.

Masanuki felt all his troubles wash away as he sat back and enjoyed the surrounding greenery. It was a wonderful way to forget about time and leave all your worries behind, and when he stepped out of his tent, he felt wonderfully relaxed and re-energised.

The healing waters felt so good that when he returned to the landlady and she told him people usually visit with plastic tanks to fill up and take home, Masanuki wished he’d done the same thing. She also told him the water has skin-smoothing properties, and while you can buy water to take home with you for bathing, it’s good for cooking with too.

Masanuki wasn’t sure about cooking with hot spring water, but he did enjoy his post-soak hot spring egg, and a plum beverage, which were on the menu for 150 yen and 330 yen respectively.

The kind proprietress also gave him some lotion for him to slather on his skin, giving him the ultimate in post-bath luxuriation. It turned out to be one of the most unique hot spring experiences he’s ever had, and now he knows of its existence, he’s keen to return to the Panthalassan Ocean Onsen…and when he does, he’ll bring a tank to fill.

Hot spring information
Panthalassa no Umi Ashikaga Onsen / パンサラッサのうみ足利温泉
Address: Tochigi-ken, Ashigaka-shi, Nagusakamicho 2715
栃木県足利市名草上町2715
Hours: 10:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m. Open Friday and Sunday only

Photos ©SoraNews24
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