We find happiness in a small Japanese confection that would require real effort to break the bank.

Recently, our Japanese-language reporter Masanuki Sunakoma took an overnight bus trip from Tokyo to Hirosaki, Aomori, to explore the northernmost prefecture of Honshu. As detailed in his travel summary, at one point during his visit he was able to sample the local beloved soul food known as koganeyaki. This pancake-like treat is warming, delicious, and astoundingly cheap at only 70 yen (US$0.48) per piece, and he was so impressed with it that he would now like to introduce it to a wider audience.

▼ “There’s no one who lives here who hasn’t eaten koganeyaki before,” said one of Masanuki’s friends who grew up in the area.

The store that he visited, Kawagoe Koganeyaki, is located in the Dote-machi district of Hirosaki. Apparently there are three stores throughout the city that sell koganeyaki, but this one is the oldest, having been founded in 1885. The exterior of the shop blends in nicely with the local buildings, many of which still emanate a Showa-era (1926-1989) retro vibe. Peering into the window from the outside, he could see the famous snack lined up in rows inside of a big tub.

The lettering on the windows proclaimed its jaw-dropping price of only 70 yen. Masanuki had spotted some outdated guides that had stated it was only 50 yen, but even despite the price increase, it was still a great bargain to him. Perhaps the locals had taken it a bit harder, though.

One thing that hasn’t changed in all of the time that koganeyaki has existed, however, is its manufacturing method. Masanuki purchased one and held it in his hand, musing that taking a bite would be equivalent to eating an actual piece of the past.

The confection was warm and comforting, with a diameter of about five centimeters (two inches). Unlike a somewhat similar Japanese sweet called imagawayaki, koganeyaki doesn’t contain any milk or egg, so he was curious to know what it would look like inside.

Breaking the piece in half, he watched as its sweet white bean paste (shiro-an) filling peeked out. He took a bite and reveled in its simple but delicious flavor, feeling the history washing over him. The dough was springy and the bean paste was super smooth. It was the kind of treat that anyone from children to elderly folks could enjoy.

As he downed the last bite, he looked up at a poster in the store window which proclaimed, “If it’s not grilled, I can’t relax.” He finally understood why the locals call koganeyaki their own special soul food and often eat it every single day, purchasing packs of ten or more to share with the whole family.

Masanuki strongly encourages anyone visiting Hirosaki to try koganeyaki. While you’re in Aomori,  you might also want to be on the lookout for another local soul food of a very different nature.

Store information
Kawagoe Koganeyaki / 川越黄金焼店
Address: Aomori-ken, Hirosaki-shi, Dote-machi 21-3
青森県弘前市土手町 21-3
Open: 9 a.m.-8 p.m.
Closed: New Year’s Day

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