
Novelist Osamu Dazai’s relocated house now invites visitors in to drink coffee, and disappear into books.
Books are wonderful gateways to worlds of fantastic realms, devious deeds, and whirlwind romances, but often the distractions of the real world keep us from fully secluding ourselves in the happenings on the pages, so many of us look for a time or place that we can set aside for the stories in our hands. We at SoraNews24 recently discovered a serene retreat in which you can devote your time entirely to reading, without having to worry about those pesky real-life problems.
Tucked among the trees in Yufuin, one of Oita Prefecture’s famous hot spring towns, is the combined cafe and reading space of Yufuin Bungaku no Mori (literally “Yufuin Forest of Literature”) that is centered around Hekiunso, a historic building where the celebrated author of No Longer Human and The Setting Sun, Osamu Dazai, once lived and wrote.
Originally built in 1935 and located in Tokyo’s Suginami Ward, the structure was carefully relocated to Yufuin by skilled carpenters, preserving its original layout and orientation. Nowadays, it has been given a new life as a peaceful haven for readers.
On the first floor of the building is an art gallery called Otona Koronsha, as well as a cafe with many windows that let in a soft, gentle light.
The four rooms of the cafe give it a spacious atmosphere, and with each offering a different view, visitors might feel undecided about where to sit. Should you happen to visit during some rainy or snowy weather, it will only serve to accentuate the tranquility of the forest and the warmth of the building even more.
Reading in such an atmosphere is a naturally pleasant experience, but it being a cafe means there’s also the additional delight of food and drinks being on offer. Oita Prefecture is known for its mushrooms, so the Oita Mushroom and Cheese Pizza for 1,200 yen (US$7.70), along with a generous salad, is a highly recommended and satisfying dish to try.
Or if you’re just in the mood for something lighter, the Reading Coffee for 650 yen also comes with a small dessert.
Upstairs is the dedicated reading space, where each room is arranged around a theme inspired by one of Osamu Dazai’s works.
Each has its own individual charm, but perhaps the highlight is the innermost room, “Human Lost,” where it is said that Dazai wrote the prototype for No Longer Human.
Even mundane details like the outside air conditioning unit somehow evoke the sense that the author had been sitting there just moments ago, adding to the unique atmosphere of the reading space. According to staff, some visitors arrive in the morning, drink coffee, read upstairs, come down for lunch, and then return to reading again, ultimately spending the entire day there, which is exactly what the Yufuin Bungaku no Mori wants to encourage. Visitors are welcome to bring your own books, but there are also books available to read inside, and books for sale. Even if you finish the book you brought, if you don’t yet want to return to reality, just pick up another one from the selection available and keep on going.
Yufuin is famous for its hot springs, but spending a full day here would be a truly special experience. If you love Japanese literature or reading, this is a little enclave of paradise you should definitely visit at least once.
Cafe information
Yufuin Bungaku no Mori / ゆふいん 文学の森
Address: Oita-ken, Yufu-shi, Yufuin-cho Kawakita 1354-26
大分県由布市湯布院町川北1354-26
Open 10:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m.
Website
Related: Yufuin Bungaku no Mori Instagram
Photos ©SoraNews24
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[ Read in Japanese ]









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