If you don’t get here half an hour before opening, chances are they’ll already be sold out. 

In the town of Natsumi in Yoshino, Nara Prefecture, there’s a ramen shop that opens for just two hours a day. Despite its remote, hard-to-access location, long lines form daily before it opens, as people come in search of the flavours that can only be found in this idyllic spot.

We were one of the people in line recently to visit the elusive restaurant, and when we got there we found there were only two items on the menu: Ramen (1,000 yen [US$6.83]) and a Ramen and Tuna Rice Bowl Set (2,000 yen).

It takes about an hour and a half to get here by car from central Osaka or Nara, down a small road off National Route 169, where the restaurant sits tucked beside the Yoshino River.

Called Ramen Kawa (“Ramen River”), this restaurant opens at 10 a.m. and closes at noon, and because there’s only a limited number of servings each day, it’s common for meals to sell out before closing. We’d heard from past visitors that it’s best to arrive at least an hour before opening, so we set out early and ended up arriving at 8:55 a.m. Even then, the parking lot was already fairly full, with cars and bikes bearing license plates from both inside and outside the prefecture, so we rushed over to add our name to the waiting list at the entrance to the restaurant.

Despite arriving an hour before opening, we were 12th on the list to get in. Feeling a tinge of regret that we hadn’t thought to arrive even earlier, we at least felt safe in the knowledge that we would be able to try the ramen before it sold out for the day.

With an hour to spare, we whiled away the time by gazing out at the Yoshino River and listening to the birds chirping happily in the shade. As it was an especially hot day, the restaurant owner occasionally came out from the kitchen to check on the waiting customers and make sure everyone was feeling okay. The owner is a man in his eighties and a former sushi chef, so watching him interact with people and prepare the meals was impressive and heartwarming in equal measures.

As the sun rose higher and the heat became even more intense, the moment of opening finally arrived. By this time, the day’s ramen servings were already sold out, and the tuna bowl set was even more popular, selling out at 9:30 p.m.

▼ So as soon as the place opened, the “営業中” (“open”) sign was turned around to read…

▼ … “Finished for the day”

People were shown to their seats according to the order on the list, and each person was seated alone at a table with a view overlooking the Yoshino River. After watching a steady train of satisfied customers leave one after another, our turn to take a seat finally came around 11 a.m.

▼ We’d ordered the Ramen and Tuna Bowl Set and it didn’t take long for the owner to bring it to our table.

The ramen, which had a shio, or salt-based, broth, was presented beautifully, with a chunky slice of pork, menma (bamboo shoots), a seasoned boiled egg, and green onions.

The soup was perfectly balanced and had an incredibly refined taste unfettered by heavy seasoning, giving it a bright and clean aftertaste.

The thick-cut pork wasn’t heavily seasoned either, with just a mild saltiness allowing the pork’s natural flavour to shine. The fat from the meat gently melted into the broth, adding extra depth to the flavour profile alongside the tender menma and the boiled egg. Every element appeared to have been specially crafted to create the perfect balance, leaving us to marvel at how much time and effort must’ve gone into preparing this single bowl.

The tuna rice bowl on the side also looked amazing, with the fish cut into plump, cube-like chunks and dressed with wasabi for a delicious kick. Upon first bite, we were blown away — the texture of the tuna was wonderfully firm and fresh, and the wasabi, which slightly coated each morsel, added just the right amount of heat.

▼ Thanks to the tuna’s fatty richness, the wasabi didn’t leave a harsh sting on the palate.

The rice was vinegared, as it would be with hand-moulded sushi, and perfectly balanced to pair exquisitely with the tuna.

Though we’d initially wondered if we would be able to finish such a large meal, switching between the ramen and tuna bowl made it so enjoyable that everything was gone in no time.

▼ Our ramen with the river view

Who would’ve thought such an extraordinary ramen and tuna bowl could be found in the mountains of Yoshino? The early start and travel time to get there was definitely worth it.

We sincerely hope that Ramen Kawa continues to thrive in this special location so that many more generations of people can enjoy a taste of these delicious meals by the river. As we set out on our journey home, we immediately resolved to return again, perhaps next time after completing the Nara Yamato Four-Temple Pilgrimage.

Restaurant information
Ramen Kawa  / ラーメン河
Address: Nara-ken, Yoshino-gun, Yoshino-cho, Natsumi 470
奈良県吉野郡吉野町菜摘470
Open: 10:00 a.m.-12:00 p.m. (ends when sold out)
Closed: Wednesdays and Thursdays (plus summer/winter vacation closures)

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