Charming old post town serves up a culinary tradition you won’t find anywhere else in Japan.   

If you’ve ever wanted to step back in time to the Japanese feudal era, when merchants, pilgrims, and samurai stopped in picturesque post towns while travelling along major routes, then you’ll want to make the journey to the mountainous area of Minami-Aizu in Fukushima Prefecture.

Here, you’ll find Ouchijuku (“大内宿”), a post-town with a beautifully preserved streetscape that remains virtually unchanged from the time it was established around 1640.

Ouchijuku flourished as a post town on the Aizu-Nishi Kaido, an important road connecting Aizu-Wakamatsu and Nikko-Imaichi during the Edo period (1603-1868).

▼ Today, over 30 thatched-roof houses line the road of the post town.

These buildings aren’t the only historic aspect that remains in the town, as there’s even a longstanding, unique local specialty that visitors can enjoy to this day, and it’s called “Negi Soba“.

▼ One of the best places to try this dish is at Yamatoya.

Yamatoya, open from 8:15 a.m., is a soba shop evocative of the Edo period, featuring a thatched roof, bamboo screens, and quaint indoor and outdoor seating.

The signature dish is clearly advertised on signs around the eatery, and is clearly distinguished by the unique eating utensil that comes with it.

▼ Can you spot the “utensil” in the bowl?

▼ That’s right — you eat negi soba with a negi, which is a leek or green onion.

Instead of being given chopsticks, diners are given a fresh negi with their noodles, and if you’re unsure of how it’s meant to be used, don’t worry — even local tourists in Japan aren’t sure of the correct etiquette.

According to the restaurant owners, this isn’t simply a quirky way to market ramen. The practice actually originated when the dish was served locally as a celebratory meal at weddings and other important occasions. It was believed that cutting the negi was considered bad luck, so for celebrations like weddings, negi was served whole as a symbol of good fortune and a wish for prosperity for one’s descendants.

▼ Yamatoya’s Negi Soba can be ordered either hot or cold, on its own for 1,200 yen (US$7.87) or as a set for 1,650 yen.

Staff at Yamatoya are on hand to help guide visitors in the ways of Negi Soba, advising that you should hold the bowl close to your mouth while using the negi, to prevent the noodles from simply sliding off the smooth vegetable.

Even with the advice of staff this dish is still tricky to eat, as it takes some time to actually maneuver the noodles into your mouth. Another tactic is to nibble on the end of the negi as you go, so you can add extra flavour to each mouthful while moulding a slightly flatter surface into the narrow end, making it slightly easier to grab the noodles.

▼ The negi cleverly acts as both utensil and condiment.

The crisp sharpness and sweetness of the negi is perfect with the warm broth, and this wild style of eating it makes the meal more delicious. Chopsticks are provided for those who don’t feel they can manage without them, but we recommend persevering with the negi as much as you can, because this is an experience you won’t find elsewhere in Japan.

Arriving early is also recommended to avoid the crowds, who queue for a taste of Negi Soba.

Ouchijuku remains little known compared to tourist sites in big cities like Tokyo and Osaka, so next time you’re looking to explore off the beaten path, with your eyes as well as your taste buds, be sure to keep this gem in mind. Plus, it’s less than an hour’s drive from the only double helix wooden structure in the world.

Restaurant information

Yamatoya / 大和屋
Address: Fukushima-ken, Minamiaizu-gun, Shimogō-machi, Ōuchi Yamamoto 6
福島県南会津郡下郷町大内山本6
Hours: 8:15 a.m.-4:30 p.m.

Photos©SoraNews24 
● Want to hear about SoraNews24’s latest articles as soon as they’re published? Follow us on Facebook and Twitter!
[ Read in Japanese ]